Caring for tile, stone, and grout

We hand over a care sheet at the end of every project, because the difference between a stone floor that looks good in ten years and one that does not is almost entirely down to what gets poured on it.

The one rule that matters

Use pH-neutral cleaners on natural stone. Acidic cleaners — including many bathroom limescale products, vinegar, and lemon-based cleaners — etch marble, limestone, and travertine on contact. The etch is physical damage to the surface, not a stain, and it does not wash off.

Porcelain

Porcelain tolerates almost anything. Warm water and a neutral detergent handles routine cleaning; a stronger product occasionally is fine. Avoid waxes and 'shine restorers', which build a film that traps dirt.

Natural stone

• Neutral cleaner only, diluted as directed.
• Blot spills rather than wiping them across the surface.
• Reseal on the schedule the sealer manufacturer specifies for your stone and use.
• Use mats at entries — grit does more damage to a stone floor than water ever will.

Grout

Modern high-performance grouts resist staining well and do not need sealing. Older cementitious grout does. Either way, avoid stiff wire brushes and strongly alkaline products, both of which erode the surface and make future staining worse.

Showers specifically

The most useful habit is a squeegee. Thirty seconds after each shower removes the water that would otherwise leave mineral deposits, and it does more for the appearance of a shower than any cleaning product.

Run the extractor for fifteen to twenty minutes after use. Persistent surface mould is nearly always a ventilation problem rather than a cleaning one.

From the shopPenetrating natural stone sealerThe penetrating sealer we use on porous stone.From $59 each